Verjus Brings a European Sensibility to FIDI

​After nearly 20 years of running Quince restaurant and rustic little sister Cotogna in Jackson Square, owners Michael and Lindsay Tusk—along with managing partner Matt Cirne—have opened Verjus, a European wine bar and casual restaurant serving up delectable bites in an iconic space directly across from the Transamerica Pyramid.
 
Those who have resided in San Francisco long enough will remember this was the building that housed the restaurant Elisabeth Daniel from owner’s Elisabeth Ramsey and Daniel Patterson in the early 2000s. It has been many different incarnations over the years, and the Tusks have taken great care to preserve the historic space, which was built during the height of the Gold Rush in the 1850s. Known as the Eclipse Champagne Building, the venue was supposedly operated as a brothel and gambling den. 

Photo by Postcard PR

Mrs. Tusk directed the design along with Jensen Architects to blend a mix of antique, vintage pieces with contemporary elements such as tables and chairs from French furniture designer Pierre Chapo. The dining room features a dramatic red-lacquered ceiling and floor tiling from Spain.
 
The restaurant also operates as a retail shop, selling wines by the bottle and an array of tinned products such as imported sardines and anchovies. An apothecary cabinet sourced from Parma in the late 1800s contains an eclectic mix of culinary antiques for sale that the Tusks have collected on their many travels across Europe.

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Verjus is a no reservations restaurant. Guests find a place to sit—bar, table or chef’s counter—and either order from the bar or from a server who may or may not come by your table. This can create a bit of confusion for guests as it’s unclear how best to place your order after you are seated. On a more recent visit the service issues had been addressed after the staff received feedback from guests. Servers now do come around and take orders and check on diners. I also noticed that the chef's counter was eliminated which is a good thing as it was a bit of an awkward place to sit so close to the food prep and plate ware.
 
The food itself is eclectic and fun and strongly influenced by regional French, Spanish and Italian cooking. Chef de cuisine David Meyer and executive chef Michael Tusk have created a small menu that changes often. There is a rotating pate en croute (pate with pastry) as well as other classic French dishes such as veal sausage, duck confit, escargot, and pot a feu to name a few. The ham croquettes I ordered were perfectly cooked and very strong in flavor, appropriate as a small dish to accompany a glass of natural wine. A larger format dish of steak frittes was prepared with the flat iron cut and was perfect in every way with juicy, flavorful beef and paired with hot, salty fries.

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On another visit I had a beautiful plate of Spanish anchovies straight out of the tin and plated over two sauces: a parsley olive oil and a red pepper puree. These are such simple pleasures! A dish of local, baby artichokes served chilled with olive oil, herbs and grated Parmigiano Reggiano was also pure joy. Moreover, it was served on a beautiful Richard Genori plate, hearkening back to the early days of Quince when Chef Tusk went on a buying and collection spree of the famous Italian plate ware company.

Photo by James Stolich

My biggest takeaway about Verjus is that it’s a fun place to spend time. You can create the experience you are looking for, whether it’s a glass of wine and a few light tapas to a complete dining experience. And the menu changes often enough to entice one to come back again. For hours of operation and other details please see  verjuscave.com.

Photo by James Stolich

TO-GO WINDOW
Starting in June 2019 Verjus will offer a to-go window on Hotaling Place, open for weekday lunch with a rotating sandwich selection and soft drinks.